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How to tie hana-bunko

Names of the parts of an obi

Common shape of a Nagoya obi
For many Nagoya obi, the part that goes around your torso is stitched so that it’s only half the width of the rest of the obi. The end that wraps around your torso is called the tesaki. The other end—which forms the bottom of the taiko-musubi knot—is called the taresaki. When you wrap the obi around your torso, you generally do so with the obi’s wa (crease) side towards the bottom.

About the hana-bunko knot

This is a cute way of tying an obi, which adds another layer of hane over the bunko-musubi knot. Because it`s based on the bunko-musubi knot, it is easy to make. The reverse side of the obi appears when you fold the hane, which makes the colors of the right and left sides different. This actually creates an accent that makes the obi very gorgeous.

How to tie a hana-bunko


If the obi is thick, set aside a longer te than usual.

1. Take a length of the obi that is equal to three times its width, and fold it in half lengthwise (this becomes the te part of the obi). Next, position the obi over the center of the date-jime so that wa is facing away from the center of your body. Drape the tesaki over your right shoulder, while wrapping the obi once around your torso.


Wrap the obi firmly for each lap.

2. Wrap the obi around your torso twice.


Fold the obi to make it narrower.

3. After the second lap, fold the obi in half lengthwise across your front so that the fold starts at the right side of your body and the line of the fold goes upward diagonally.


Pay attention to the flow of the obi.

4. Fold the te part of the obi in half lengthwise (wa should be facing towards your left), and cross te over tare.


When tying the obi, pull sideways.

5. Tuck te under tare and draw it out. Tie firmly.


Pull the part of tare that is at the center of the knot across to the right.

6. Drape the tesaki over your left shoulder and open the tare to its full width before making the hane.


Make the top hane shorter than the bottom one.

7. From the taresaki, fold the obi into a byobu tatami (concertina) to make your hane.


Position the hane over the knot.

8. Create a W-shaped concertina (See the bunko musubi section) at the center of the hane.


Tuck in the rest of the tesaki to create a foundation.

9. Pull down the te, which has been draped over your left shoulder, wrap it once around the center of the concertina, and tighten it. After tightening, and then making a second lap, fold the rest of the tesaki and tuck it into the obi that is wound around your torso.


Grasp diagonally-opposed corners of the hane and pull them outward.

10. Pull diagonally-opposed corners of the hane outward, so as to adjust the length, concertina effect, etc.


First lower the bottom hane.

 

11. Fold the hane down. Fold  the bottom hane in the same way as for the bunko musubi, while twisting the top wings up a little.


11. Fold the hane down. Fold  the bottom hane in the same way as for the bunko musubi, while twisting the top wings up a little.

12. After your hane is complete, slide it around to your back. Hold the center of the bunko-musubi with your right hand, while holding the center of the back with your left hand, and slip it 180 degrees around you clockwise. If turning it 180 degrees at once is difficult, it is fine to do it in two moves (90 degrees each time). Just be careful not to let your bow fall out of shape and waste all the effort you put in to get it the right shape.


Add volume to the hane.

13. Adjust your hane one more time and it’s complete.

 

 

Applying hana-bunko
You can create a variety of tones depending on the balance between the lengths of the top and the bottom hane or on how you finish them. You can also achieve different effects by using different lengths of obi.
 
If you want to try a more chic style of tying your obi, see the genroku-musubi section.

For a style that is more “chic” than “cute,” we recommend tying your obi using the genroku-musubi knot. By wearing an obi with a smart genroku-musubi knot over a stylish yukata, you can express yourself as a mature, sophisticated woman.